A bakery owner who wakes up at 12:48 am to start prepping croissants says her success comes from social capital and 'radical hospitality'

"Five days a week, her alarm goes off at 12:48 a.m., giving her just enough time to get out of bed, walk the 10 blocks to the shop, and start shaping croissants by 1 a.m. She relieves her 23-year-old daughter, who works the 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. night shift."

"The most foot traffic happens between 8 a.m., when her bakery opens, and 10:30 a.m., she explained: 'If we don't have enough things to sell because we shaped too late or they went into the proofer too late, then we lose money.'"

"From 1 a.m. to 3 a.m., she works alone in the kitchen. 'It's my favorite time of day,' said the mother of three, 'because I just listen to true-crime podcasts.'"

Clémence de Lutz Gossett owns Petitgrain Boulangerie on Los Angeles' Wilshire Boulevard, operating a demanding schedule that begins at 12:48 a.m. five days weekly. She shapes croissants starting at 1 a.m., working alone until 3 a.m. when additional bakers arrive in staggered shifts. The bakery opens at 8 a.m., with peak customer traffic occurring between 8 and 10:30 a.m. De Lutz Gossett emphasizes that early morning preparation is essential for business success, ensuring sufficient inventory of fresh pastries during high-traffic hours. Her daughter works the evening shift from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m., and the team includes multiple bakers and front-of-house staff. Fridays typically involve business development work, though staffing challenges occasionally require extended hours.

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