Over two dozen stunning dishes are laid out on a steam table in gleaming metal receptacles; it blew me away with how it offered some highlights of the nation's cuisine plotted out like the periodic table of elements. The owner of the restaurant is Tozammel Tanzil, who, with his mother Shahara Khan, has operated other Bangladeshi restaurants in Queens, including Boishakhi, just down the street.
The four of us engage in lively discussion on the merits of mustard oil - a constant in Bangladeshi cooking - bright yellow, pungent, and producing a mild burning sensation quite different from chiles, black peppercorns, grains of paradise, or Sichuan peppercorns.
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