"I can't remember when my terror of waves began in earnest. Maybe it was a singular incident that triggered it, like that monster wave in Biarritz, France, almost 20 years ago that body-slammed me on to the seabed, taking all the skin off my chin. More likely is that my transition from fearless to frightened had been more of a slow creep, and a perfectly rational one when you consider the danger of riptides, hidden rocks, sharks and concussion."
"So when I recently found myself about to change jobs for the first time in 14 years, I decided that I needed a circuit break and that this circuit break should be a week-long trauma surfing retreat in Morocco. Here, I figured, I could process some of the emotionally shredding content I'd exposed myself to while, hopefully, finally facing up to my fear of waves."
A journalist developed a terror of waves after a monster wave in Biarritz and a gradual accumulation of fear from riptides, hidden rocks, sharks and concussion. Nearly two decades reporting on the worst human cruelty eroded confidence in keeping self and others safe. The fear now renders any sea with waves above waist-height a no-go zone, prompting shoreline fretting while family rides waves and causing sadness. Approaching a job change, the journalist chose a week-long trauma-surfing retreat in Morocco to process emotionally shredding material and confront wave fear. Resurface, founded by psychologist Josh Dickson, pairs yoga and surf lessons with group therapy to foster a healing flow state.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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