Even now, Lisbon's traditional tascas are still the beating heart of the city's food scene

"At about 1pm on any given weekday, Lisbon locals - particularly the older generation - might find themselves gathered around a paper-topped table at Imperial de Campo de Ourique, digging into a hearty lunch of bacalhau à brás (salt cold with potatoes and eggs) or feijoada (black bean stew with meat). In the kitchen, pots will be bubbling. In the corner, a television will be playing local sports, or maybe a news channel. Punters will be drinking from a carafe of house wine, or maybe sipping brandy, and service will be brusque but peppered with in-jokes and friendly smiles."

"Imperial de Campo de Ourique is one of many traditional tascas that's built into Portuguese dining culture. The restaurant opened its doors in 1947, founded by two brothers, Manuel and António de Araújo. João Gomes took over the business in 1985, alongside his wife (and beloved chef) Adelaide, and the couple still run the spot alongside their son Nuno."

"This is a much-loved tasca not so different from those that came before it - except, perhaps, for its fiercely loyal clientele. Because in a city as ever-changing as Lisbon, not all traditional tascas have survived. The Portuguese capital is one of the best"

""I learned to walk and grew up in the restaurant," Nuno tells Condé Nast Traveller. "I have memories of many customers who are no longer here, and others who are starting to frequent the restaurant now.""

Lisbon’s influential neighbourhood tascas blend tradition and modern life through hearty, classic Portuguese meals served in familiar, lively settings. At Imperial de Campo de Ourique, lunch brings locals together around paper-topped tables for dishes such as bacalhau à brás and feijoada, with bubbling pots in the kitchen and sports or news on a television. House wine or brandy is served from carafes, while service remains brusque yet warm, with in-jokes and friendly smiles. The restaurant opened in 1947, founded by two brothers, and later continued under João Gomes and his wife Adelaide, with their son Nuno still involved. Some traditional tascas have not survived Lisbon’s change, but loyal clientele keeps certain places thriving.

Read at CN Traveller