We feel let down': sustainable chefs in UK mourn end of Michelin green star

Michelin-starred restaurants have not always emphasized sustainability, including serving rare bluefin tuna and red meat. In 2020 Michelin introduced Green Stars to recognize chefs using eco-friendly ingredients and reducing waste. The prize was retired abruptly, and chefs can no longer advertise that they have it. Winners previously received a green plaque for their front doors and could display the star on their websites. Chefs who won last year expressed disappointment, saying the accolade helped them stand out internationally and that the change was handled poorly. Some chefs rely on sustainable menus featuring local produce, hand-dived seafood, and low-impact growing methods. Concerns were raised that broader corporate sustainability efforts may be weakening.

"In 2020 Michelin began awarding green stars to chefs who cooked eco-friendly ingredients and reduced waste. But now the body has abruptly retired the prize and said chefs will no longer be able to advertise that they have it. Winners of the accolade were given a green plaque to proudly display by their front door, and were able to show a picture of the star on their website, much as they would if they had won a traditional Michelin star."

"“It’s disappointing — one of our dreams was to have one,” said Piers Milburn, the owner of Pythouse Kitchen Garden in Wiltshire, which won a green star last year. “His menu features sustainable ingredients such as English fava beans, hand-dived scallops and local blackberries. We think it’s quite irresponsible for Michelin to build a platform for businesses to thrive from for an accolade and then whisk it away. ”"

"“We were enormously proud of it and now we feel let down by them.” Milburn said there are signs that corporations across the world are reducing their sustainability initiatives in the wake of US president Donald Trump’s backlash against DEI and climate programmes. “I pray Michelin is not stepping back from sustainability,” Milburn said."

"Hylton Espey, who owns Culture restaurant in Falmouth, Cornwall, serves fish from the local market and mushrooms grown in a nearby no-dig garden. “We did not have any communication regarding the green star changes until after the press release went out. We feel that this could have been handled better,” he said. Epsey added that the star was a rare achievement and it helped us stand out amongst other restaurants on an international scale."

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