Hanging on the wall in the deep-varnished, oak-panelled stairwell at the Suffield Arms is a red neon sign which reads Beer Girls Porn with a blue neon arrow pointing to the ground floor. It is not entirely inaccurate. For all the restaurant trappings, this place still displays elements of pub.
Then there is the third word. Certainly, the walls are hung with pictures, of a sort which might once have been called risque: faux American pin-ups; glowering documentary shots of life-class models, preparing to pose.
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