The popular Chinese street food is typically made with a savory pancake curled around braised beef, fresh greens and a lick of sweet and salty fermented bean sauce.
But the best rolls feature pancakes that are crisp and chewy; beef that's long-simmered, aromatic and either sliced thin or tender enough to mash with a fork; sauce that's obvious but not overbearing; and an abundance of green onion, cilantro and sometimes cucumber.
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