"Every dinner ought to begin with sea urchin. McCall assembles a delicate double-decker waffle tower using plenty of sea urchin tongues, nori-honey butter, and yuzu cream. While it's possible to consume the dish in one fell swoop, the preferred method is to use one's hands to balance the various layers."
"After years of being served chicken liver pâté in a rustic Mason jar, McCall's precise presentation - a perfectly smooth cuboid topped with crispy chicken skin - feels like a feast for the senses. Served alongside are bits of frisee, toast points, and a fruity compote."
"Agnolotti has been on the menu since day one, featuring fillings and accoutrements like late-summer corn and early-spring squash. The silky yet toothsome pasta plays exceedingly well in the dish."
Northeast Los Angeles has seen a dining renaissance with new restaurants like Cannonball, Betsy, and Hermon's. Backbone, a new American restaurant in Montrose, is run by chefs Nathan McCall and Karen Yoo. They previously operated a butcher shop before realizing their dream of opening a restaurant. Backbone features thoughtful, seasonal dishes in a quiet setting. Signature dishes include a sea urchin waffle tower, a refined chicken liver pâté, and agnolotti with seasonal fillings, showcasing the chefs' culinary expertise and creativity.
Read at Eater LA
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