My favorite story is also my most personal. It provides insight into the foodways of Black Southern Californians, of which I proudly represent the second generation on my maternal side. The essay delves into the rise of what I came to dub the 'Black taco', first in Black homes and later in Black-owned restaurants. It shares the influence Black home cooks gleaned from Mexican neighbors and taquerias, as well as how their recipes diverge from typical preparations.
Enciso compares making bread to a spiritual practice, a way of learning about himself as much as about baking. Pan de muerto - in the style most common in the state of Mexico - is round, fluffy and decorated with symbolic bones or the tears of the dead. The process of baking it becomes a meditation, blending cultural significance with personal reflection, presenting a fascinating exploration of traditional techniques.
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