My favorite place to dine at Bicyclette, Margarita and Walter Manzke's soon-to-close Pico-Robertson bistro, was along the bar - a nine-seat stretch of polished wood situated between the restaurant's entrance and the window of its semiopen kitchen.
The cooking delivered, just as it always has during my experiences: escargot baked individually in small ramekins with a mushroom-shaped cap of puff pastry; the spectacularly caramelized onion tarte tatin, fanned in a meticulous spiral and offset with a creamy layer of goat cheese.
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