Where to Eat in September
Briefly

Neighborhood spots present a range of focused dishes and distinct dining experiences. Arrigo’s functions as a sandwich shop by day and a full-service restaurant at night, featuring eggplant parm glazed with Pecorino cream, Pet‑Nat on the wine list, crudo of bluefin or scallop in green‑tomato dashi, cacio e pepe rice balls, a labneh‑dressed sugar‑snap salad, rib‑sticking ragù over rigatoni, and a sakura pork chop with a shattering crust. Tortelli in Carroll Gardens serves tortelli in buttery pesto and cavatelli in heirloom tomato sugo, offers dine‑in exclusives like frizzled snap peas over ricotta, and pours affordable wines.
There's Pet-Nat on the tidy wine list and a menu that steers away from simple red-sauce nostalgia. Crudo might be ruddy bluefin tuna or thick slices of scallop in a chilly, almost icy green-tomato dashi. Plump cacio e pepe rice balls are packed with cheese. A sugar-snap salad with endive and mint gets lightly dressed with labneh. The ragù over rigatoni is rib-sticking, but there's no resisting the sakura pork chop, its craggily, shattering crust protecting juicy, still rosy meat.
As the weather chills a bit, there may be no more in-demand tables than the four sitting outside at this new Carroll Gardens pasta shop from the chef behind LaRina and Briscola. The titular tortelli comes in a very buttery pesto, while cavatelli is bathed in a sugo of heirloom tomatoes. Some items, however, are exclusive to the dine-in experience, like fresh frizzled snap peas served over ricotta with croutons.
Read at Grub Street
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