"Is a teeny tiny po'boy that holds a single oyster. a little bit ridiculous? Yes and is it delicious? That too. I think maybe I forgot fine dining can be all of these things at once until I went to Emeril's in New Orleans. You might associate Emeril's with the famous first name-only celebrity chef who opened it in 1990, but the restaurant was recently taken over by his son."
"He renovated it, and reimagined it as a very serious fancy restaurant, but one that is also clearly having a ton of fun with the ideas and the mechanics of fine dining. It reminded me of how a great tasting menu needs not just talent and technical precision, but also energy, excitement and a sincere affection for the form itself. Some of my favorite bites were the pitch-dark gumbo that was impossibly full of flavor."
Emeril's in the Warehouse District of New Orleans was completely reworked by Emeril Lagasse's son, who renovated and reimagined the 35-year-old flagship restaurant. The operation now presents a serious, fancy tasting-menu format that deliberately injects playfulness into fine-dining mechanics. The menu balances technical precision with energy, excitement and affection for the form. Standout dishes included a teeny po'boy with a single oyster, a pitch-dark gumbo dense with flavor, and a trout almondine cooked in foaming butter. The cooking style evokes a vintage, early-1990s emphasis on luxury and reverence for culinary history and the restaurant's past.
Read at www.nytimes.com
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