"American diners have very little chill right now. Not literally (New Yorkers are eating fro-yo when it's 10 degrees) -but psychologically. We've never encountered so many people lining up across the country to try the new "neighborhood spot." Pastry cases are being cleared, pop-ups are extending into "residencies," and the good people of Los Angeles are swarming the sidewalk to eat...British food (?). Come, gather round, we'll tell you what we've seen."
"One of our London writers, Heidi Lauth Beasley, says that trying to get a restaurant reservation in 2026 is like Jigsaw asking you, "Would you like to play a game?" Some big-deal new restaurants are trying a new tactic. NYC's new flour tortilla king, Bordertown, is entirely walk-in only, whereas Pine Street Grill in Philly, a tavern from the people behind hard-to-book and Her Place Supper Club, holds 50% of their seats for walk-ins. Meanwhile, is showing LA that British food can be sexy, and only offers "a few" reservations each night."
American diners are lining up nationwide for new neighborhood restaurants, generating unusually high demand and long waits. Restaurants increasingly prioritize walk-ins and spontaneity, yet the policy often transfers demand rather than easing it; many walk-in seats are claimed immediately or provoke hour-plus sidewalk lines. Examples include Bordertown's walk-in-only model and Pine Street Grill holding half its seats for walk-ins, prompting detailed public explanations. Pastry cases are being cleared, pop-ups are expanding into residencies, Los Angeles diners are crowding for British food, and Levantine cafes and sweets are proliferating. The surge strains operations and confuses diners despite attempts to foster casual, local dining.
Read at The Infatuation
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