Review: A modern Mexican supernova becomes the neighborhood restaurant L.A. needs
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Review: A modern Mexican supernova becomes the neighborhood restaurant L.A. needs
"Signatures - refried lentils, duck albondigas, lamb neck consommé - return in a new, warm setting, without sacrificing the complexity that made the original iconic. Chicharrón reimagined into a crisp-soft pinwheel of pork belly. Duck albondigas permeated with smokiness from chipotle and bacon. Lamb neck, its meat as yielding as pot roast, previously steamed in tamales and currently fashioned as chile-stained barbacoa set over fragrant consommé."
"When Garcia opened the restaurant downtown in 2015, he innovated an expression of Alta California cuisine that felt wonderfully specific to Los Angeles. His approach grafted the Mexican staples of his East L.A. childhood with techniques gleaned from years in Euro-centric fine dining. His penchant for snout-to-tail butchery - as well as his lyric low-food-chain dishes like dimpled chochoyotes in broth scented with green garlic and pasilla chiles,"
Broken Spanish has reopened in Culver City as Broken Spanish Comedor, retaining signature dishes like refried lentils, duck albondigas, and lamb neck consommé. The restaurant keeps complex flavors—smoky chipotle and bacon in duck albondigas, crisp-soft chicharrón pinwheels, and chile-stained lamb barbacoa over fragrant consommé. The relaunch shifts from an upscale downtown destination to a more midscale, neighborhood-oriented setting while maintaining Ray Garcia’s fusion of East L.A. Mexican staples with Euro-centric fine-dining techniques and a snout-to-tail butchery ethos. The updated concept feels timely and invites a local clientele.
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