Restaurant review: The food at one of Ireland's newest Michelin stars is skilful and well-judged - but is the talented chef playing it safe?

"Our critic enjoyed chef Angelo Vagiotis's winning eight-course tasting menu served in former Orient Express train carriages but would love to see some of his Greek heritage on the plate"

"On Monday evening, in a ceremony at the Convention Centre in Dublin, Angelo Vagiotis of the Pullman restaurant at the Glenlo Abbey Hotel joined the ranks of Ireland's Michelin-starred chefs; you could see the longed-for jacket almost bursting with pride."

"No shrinking violet, the chef had been upfront about his ambitions."

Chef Angelo Vagiotis serves a winning eight-course tasting menu presented in former Orient Express train carriages. The critic enjoyed the menu but wished to see more visible elements of the chef's Greek heritage on the plate. On Monday evening, in a ceremony at the Convention Centre in Dublin, Angelo Vagiotis of the Pullman restaurant at the Glenlo Abbey Hotel joined the ranks of Ireland's Michelin-starred chefs. The longed-for jacket was worn with obvious pride. The chef had been upfront about his ambitions, and the accolade reflects a deliberate pursuit of culinary recognition.

Read at Independent