Some combination of aesthetic evolution, brand loyalty, and the need to communicate one's identity in the time it takes to view an Instagram story has curdled into a fashion trend uniquely suited to our late-capitalist times.
Restaurant merch is now so cool, resident cool girl Alison Roman is selling merch for a restaurant that doesn't exist. I myself have purchased the infamous Daddy's Little Meatball shirt and, for some reason, a hat that says "Pizza Shirt" from a Philly pizzeria I've never been to. We can't even see the shark anymore.
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