Koreatown's New Pasta Bar Proves Fusion Isn't a Bad Word
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Koreatown's New Pasta Bar Proves Fusion Isn't a Bad Word
"At Lapaba, a new Koreatown pasta bar, a pair of Osteria Mozza veterans infuse regional Italian dishes with Korean ingredients. A curved stone bar peers into the semi-open kitchen where husband-and-wife chef team McKenna Lelah and Matthew Kim fill deep-fried supplì with melty mozzarella and cubes of Spam, and jjajang meets guanciale in bucatini all'Amatriciana. Instead of Italian family-size portions, dishes here have been downsized to encourage sampling a few pastas from the menu at once."
"Crispy, lollipopped fried chicken wings come with yuzu kosho ranch that's one of the highlights of the entire meal. Order the wings - good in their own right with a light coating and sweet-sticky glaze - just to get a side of tangy dairy ambrosia to dip everything else in. Pillow-shaped agnolotti get stuffed with smoky corn and bedded in a shallow pool of brown butter simmered with thyme."
Lapaba, a Koreatown pasta bar, pairs regional Italian pasta techniques with Korean ingredients. Husband-and-wife chefs McKenna Lelah and Matthew Kim, veterans of Osteria Mozza, operate from a curved stone bar facing a semi-open kitchen. Menu portions are downsized to encourage sampling multiple pastas, including deep-fried supplì filled with mozzarella and Spam and a bucatini all'Amatriciana that blends jjajang with guanciale. Small plates include crispy lollipopped chicken wings served with yuzu kosho ranch and pillow-shaped agnolotti stuffed with smoky corn in brown butter and thyme. Desserts range from a misugaru-and-makgeolli Tiramisu-Garu to a black truffle soft serve. Wine and cocktails reflect the chefs' preferences.
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