"The long counter is too fluorescent to be sexy, but still manages to be a scene, especially later in the evening, when nocturnal New Yorkers slink in for an Asahi (the only beer available), and a bowl of jet-black cuttlefish stew. No one who works here has actually been to the original-because they weren't born in time-but they've clearly done their homework."
"The food is half fridge-raiding fever dream: spaghetti and meatballs with packaged ramen noodles, corbaci peppers with a soft boiled egg and a few stray anchovies, and sure, why not put some mayo and thai basil on there. It's also part nostalgia: a pork sandwich with mayo and tomato on delightfully squishy white bread, and a $60 steak (with a side of creamed spinach) that's always available. It's all very quirky, and for the most part pretty edible too."
Food began in the 1970s as an artists' restaurant in Soho. A new group of artists in Chinatown seeks to revive that spirit and aesthetic. The long fluorescent counter becomes a scene at night, attracting patrons for Asahi and jet-black cuttlefish stew. Most current staff are artists or have limited restaurant experience, and stews often appear on the daily menu. The cuisine blends inventive, fridge-raiding combinations with nostalgic comfort items, from packaged-ramen spaghetti to a pork sandwich on squishy white bread and an always-available $60 steak with creamed spinach. Overall, the food is quirky and largely edible.
Read at The Infatuation
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