Eric Wareheim Gets Existential About the Steakhouse
Briefly

Eric Wareheim Gets Existential About the Steakhouse
"Steak House, co-written with Gabe Ulla, explores why we're so drawn to these martini-filled, leather-boothed haunts and what that fixation says about the state of American dining and desire. Through Steak House, Wareheim offers more than just recipes; it serves as an anthropological - and distinctly Wareheimian - study of the people who make the country's classic steakhouses what they are."
"I started going to steakhouses a lot around the pandemic times. I've been around the world 100 times and eaten everywhere and what I come back to is the comfort and consistency and joy that the steakhouse provides. It's simple and I can enjoy it the same as my dad, as my granddad. It's this unifying thing in a country that has a lot of very, very bad things; it's a good thing that I think is uniquely American."
At least 65 steakhouses were visited during research. The visits began as an excuse for nightly pleasure but evolved into an obsessive, anthropological examination of martini-filled, leather-boothed haunts and the people who staff and frequent them. The research identifies reasons steakhouses attract diners and reveals aspects of American dining habits and desire. Steakhouses offer comfort, consistency, and cross-generational enjoyment that unites patrons. Ideal steakhouse orders include a gin martini with one olive and no vermouth, wedge salad with blue cheese, garlic bread when available, and a noted skipping of shrimp cocktail.
Read at Eater
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