"Chef Nick Tamburo's homage to New England oceanic foodways occupies a cramped subterranean East Village space that makes a meal there "closer to dining belowdecks on the Pequod." Fittingly, the menu is full of deep cuts and dark riffs on the New England theme: a maple-infused pâté of smoked bluefish, rye-like anadama bread, grilled mackerel that's "perfumed with tamarind, allspice, and chile," and head-on whiting that's whole-fried and "served with the dignity usually accorded to branzino.""
"Tamburo also isn't afraid to be impious: He serves a delicious riff on clam chowder that buries quahogs in steamy rice. Not every dish lands. The chef's "abiding interest in the weird" isn't for all diners, and maybe seaweed doesn't belong in any dessert. But after several months of unsteady experimentation, Smithereens has found its sea legs. Though it's "not a restaurant for everyone," it "might be an even better thing: a restaurant very much for some." 414 E. 9th St."
Smithereens operates in a cramped subterranean East Village space and serves dark, inventive riffs on New England oceanic foodways, including maple-infused pâté of smoked bluefish, rye-like anadama bread, tamarind- and allspice-perfumed grilled mackerel, and whole-fried head-on whiting served with branzino-like dignity. The menu includes an unconventional clam chowder burying quahogs in steamy rice and experiments that range from successful to divisive, such as seaweed in dessert. Bayonet in Birmingham presents an airy, seafood-forward companion to a Southern chophouse, featuring sustainable Gulf fish, rotating preparations, creative uses of caramel and fruit salsas, and a lively raw bar.
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