"American cinema-verite demigod Frederick Wiseman's latest is a 6,000-course tasting menu of a documentary, like one of those supercuts with all the delicious food on offer in Studio Ghibli films. Most of the 95-year-old's career has been dedicated to chronicling US institutions, but here he returns to the strain of Francophile work he has dipped into since the mid-90s (he lives in the country part-time). In this case, he infiltrates the Michelin triple-starred Le Bois sans Feuilles restaurant in Ouches in the Loire,"
"In long, eavesdroppy tableaux, Wiseman inventories every aspect of the business: recipe-brainstorming, market-stall recon, table-setting, meal preparation, supplier farms, clientele mouthgasms. This prandial haven is part of the Maison Troisgros business that has been run by the same family in nearby Roanne for four generations; Michel Troisgros is the current patriarch, but his son Cesar is now head chef. Wiseman, eschewing narration as is his wont, lets us figure all this out while he follows his nose through the kitchens and dining spaces."
A four-hour cinema-verite documentary infiltrates Le Bois sans Feuilles, a Michelin three-star restaurant in Ouches, Loire, and records every operational detail: recipe brainstorming, market research, table setting, meal production, supplier visits and diners' reactions. The restaurant belongs to the Maison Troisgros family, run for four generations; Michel Troisgros leads the operation while his son César serves as head chef. The film omits voiceover, favoring observational tableaux and calm, process-driven scenes without staged drama. Staff briefings include diners' personal circumstances and dietary needs; technical considerations such as lighting and air flow are discussed for texture outcomes like creme brulee.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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