"Under its founder Consuelo Castiglioni, Marni garnered a repute in the 1990s for collaged, crafty clothes, expanding to contradictory combinations of folksy and sci-fi, or sports and couture in latter decades. She departed her label in 2016, with Francesco Risso taking the reins - ex-Prada, he continued with paradoxes, albeit in an often off-kilter, even helter-skelter and utterly singular style that took Marni far from the maddening crowd, but equally far from its roots."
"A few days before her debut, in Marni's bright headquarters in southern Milan, she'd pinned up a selection of images from Marni's earliest shows. From the mid-90s, there were slim-line coats in animal prints (Marni started out as a fur house, although they only use shearling as a byproduct now), and later in the 2000s, blurry, low-res images of polkadot prints and ombré lines, both of which cropped up."
"A Belgian, she's designed for Marc Jacobs and headed women's design at Dries Van Noten before launching her own line. They're kindred spirits to Marni's gentle, tender clothes, texturally complex but simple in shape."
Meryll Rogge made her debut as creative director at Marni for Autumn/Winter 2026, drawing inspiration from the brand's foundational identity. Marni originally built its reputation under founder Consuelo Castiglioni in the 1990s for collaged, crafty garments combining contradictory elements like folksy and sci-fi aesthetics. After Castiglioni's departure in 2016, Francesco Risso maintained paradoxical design but moved the brand away from its roots. Rogge studied Marni's earliest shows to reestablish the brand's core values while introducing her own perspective. Her background designing for Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten, combined with her Belgian heritage, aligns with Marni's tradition of texturally complex yet simply shaped garments. The collection demonstrates both authorship and a return to the brand's distinctive identity.
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