They make you work for them, with all that careful washing to rinse the sand and grit from between their layers. And leeks are thoughtful - they don't make you cry as you chop them for your meal.
Sheet-pan season lasts until it's too hot to turn on the oven, and this new recipe for spiced chicken with sweet potatoes from Yasmin Fahr looks fantastic and friendly... Every time I roast a whole fish, I wonder why I don't do it more often.
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