Jennifer Minniti and Matthew Linde's exhibition at Pratt Manhattan Gallery featured Eckhaus Latta, LUAR, Telfar, among others, highlighting the fusion of underground legends with mainstream recognition in experimental New York fashion.
An exhibition in 1986 by Harold Koda, Richard Martin, and Laura Sindebrand at FIT galleries brought together fringe fashion innovators like Nick Nix and Bayard, showcasing provocative pieces featuring screen-printed dollar bills, portraits of political figures, and avant-garde designs reflecting American culture.
The showcased designs at the exhibition tread between praise and critique of American idealism, with garments like Vaquera's backless credit card dress and Telfar's eerie corporate cosplay collection video expressing ambivalence towards commercialism and traditional ideals.
Both exhibitions emphasized panache over professionalism, whimsy over wearability, and irreverence towards commercial success, highlighting a parallel in the fashion world over the years.
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