The 12-day conflict between Iran and Israel shed light on the intricate social and political dynamics within Tehran. The article reflects on the author's personal experiences returning to the city after two decades and notes that while Tehran has modernized and transformed, it remains deeply affected by its theocratic governance. The ‘visible city’ represents a modern and vibrant culture, characterized by private spaces where residents express their individuality and resistance against the regime's restrictions. This contrast illustrates the tension between public conformity and private dissent in the heart of the Islamic Republic.
Tehran, the heart of the Islamic Republic, is revealed to be a city of modernity and concealed resistance, once hidden beneath layers of theocratic governance.
The war with Israel has exposed the complexities of Tehran's identity, from its vibrant public spaces to the private lives of those opposing the regime.
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