Goblets of borscht, turkey-shaped madeleines: why Martha Stewart's fantastical menus are still an inspiration
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Goblets of borscht, turkey-shaped madeleines: why Martha Stewart's fantastical menus are still an inspiration
"the greenhouse ready to accommodate among the orchids, in unseasonable November warmth an intimate Hawaiian luau. The table was set with giant clam shells for serving vessels and miniature hibachis for grilling Dungeness crab. Somebody had found a small, pink pineapple and secured it on the watermelon like a brooch. The hostess considered the merits of a hula dancer, but in the end settled on a more succinct spectacle: a 19lb suckling pig, enwreathed with sub-tropical flowers and caparisoned in bronze."
"It takes a spark of something dazzling, even dangerous, to notice a single detail an orchid, say and from this to extrapolate a 20-person luau. A while later, Stewart wrote about the party in Entertaining, her 1982 cookbook debut, lushly photographed and with step-by-step instructions for chicken wings with banana. The pig wore a necklace of starfruit, she explained. It speaks to Stewart's generational talent for nonsense that this isn't even in the top 10 wildest sentences in the book."
Martha Stewart staged an intimate Hawaiian luau in a greenhouse with giant clam shells, miniature hibachis, a pink pineapple pinned to a watermelon and a 19lb suckling pig adorned with sub-tropical flowers and bronze. Entertaining (1982) is a lushly photographed cookbook debut with step-by-step instructions and eccentric recipes such as chicken wings with banana; the pig wore a necklace of starfruit. Stewart demonstrates an ability to extrapolate large, elaborate events from a single decorative detail and to fuse meticulous practical guidance with far-out, whimsical entertaining ideas such as bedroom tables to imply swingers.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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