"Core, in the context of surfing, is anything but the newest technology or the flashiest gear, it is instead in holding onto the essence of the ethic that drives a sport."
"Nothing new in surfing will ever be as cool or as graceful as a black and white photo from the 80s of a long pin shape gun being ridden down barrels of Hawaii."
"Just the same as in mountain biking, I don't much enjoy crowds, preferring to frequent point breaks on down days or in low profile areas."
"This diatribe is in service of little more than encouraging myself, and all of us to fix our gear."
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