If I had to choose one word to encapsulate the creative surge that propelled L.A.'s food culture forward last decade - a momentum that confirmed the city's status as a global culinary destination, a spate of nonconformism that continues to influence how we think about restaurants - it would be Baroo.
I know, though, that I am not alone in feeling like a Marvel character glitching and time-slipping whenever I walk through Baroo's door: Part of me is settling into a seat at this new, handsome, efficient operation, and another is suddenly back at a cramped communal table in the bare-bones Hollywood strip mall where Baroo began in 2015.
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