Brittany Antoinette Wilson's dad has been a collector for over 30 years, starting with comics and expanding to baseball caps and sneakers. His sneaker collection, now around 500 pairs, reflects his passion for fashion and appearance.
CFGNY is having a big spring. The self-proclaimed 'vaguely Asian' art and fashion collective is in a group exhibition about the production and representation of Asian fashion at Pioneer Works, transforming the third floor into a cardboard-lined shipping container filled with studio portraits shot in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, a growing fashion hub.
Beneath a dome that once watched over the French Communist Party's debates in the 1970s, a large self-illuminating dinner table is prepared. Its oval shape stands in the middle of a room noisy with conversation and Object Blue's elegant, beat-driven dinner soundtrack. Guests like Gabbriette, Cruz Beckham, Paloma Elsesser, Damson Idris, ASAP Nast and Pusha T gather under a DayGlo hanging light box. The setting looks, not at all accidentally, like Kubrick's vision of a war room in Dr. Strangelove. And it is a party.
It's easier than ever to buy a suit. Mall mainstays like J.Crew make very good ones in a range of fits, with a seasonally rotating selection of new and interesting cloths. Affordable specialists like Suitsupply and Spier & Mackay offer impressive quality while pricing everything from two-button jackets to full-fledged tuxedos for far less than it seems they should be able to.
Choosing a particular model does not necessarily mean focusing on excessive colour, but rather knowing how to identify the lines and volumes that communicate a precise aesthetic vision that breaks with convention. This process requires a certain awareness of materials and proportions, as a shoe with a strong design has the ability to transform even the simplest outfit into a sophisticated and modern style statement.
For someone who once redefined the Dior man by putting him in a skinny black suit and sneakers, and then did it all over again at Berluti with more colour and leather, Kris Van Assche has always had a curious relationship with the idea of uniform. Unwilling to take it at face value, uniforms in Van Assche's hands are signals of who we think we are and who we want to be, depending on how we button the collar or where we pin the flower.
It's an interesting connection between that table and these clothes, because Marc Jacobs has been in Wonderland for a few seasons, making garments swollen with great buboes of fabric and wadding that distended and deformed the body, like majestic mutants. They were wondrously otherworldly, outscale and, to most people, unwearable. Intentionally so. This collection, by contrast, brought Jacobs literally down to earth, taking his models off teetering platforms and into plain old high heels.
What is haute couture? It's an existential, philosophical question that always arises around this fashion as art form, an anachronism in our modern world. Why does couture persist? Why should it exist? It's something designers are grappling with this week, not least Matthieu Blazy in his Chanel haute couture debut. For him, couture is about intimacy, privacy, and an impossible, almost unbearable lightness. Couture is about doing what has never been done before. He made this Chanel collection directly on the body.
Captured beautifully by Shin Jeong Hoon, this collection is a poignant homage to the rich tapestry of East African heritage. When millennial East Africans revisit vintage photographs of their grandparents, joyously dancing on polished parquet floors or posing with vintage Citroens and Beetles against a backdrop of brilliantly blooming bougainvillaea, one can't help but feel a wave of nostalgia. Something is captivating about that wooden floor, their natural hair,
People have a lot of ideas of what Chanel is, or rather what it should be. One word that doesn't come up much, though, is rebellious - yet that's exactly what Chanel the woman was and what Chanel the house remains. Rather than rebellion, 'paradox' was the word used by Matthieu Blazy, Chanel's artistic director of fashion collections, backstage after his debut show for the maison in October.
It captures seven different femininities during an all-day pool party, enjoying themselves while revealing their distinctive styles. Creative Direction, Production & Styling by Maria Gkin. Photography by Eliza Poultidou. The models are Vanessa Otilia, Cyka, Alvina Chamberland and Angelica Komninak. The concept examines the thin line between what is seen as acceptable and what has been labelled ugly or immoral, explored through each woman's personal story. Textures, colours, makeup and styling come together, breaking down stereotypes and highlighting fashion as a means of freedom
That past is his - it is the 20th anniversary of his label, and accordingly he decided to embrace, engage, even embed himself in his own history. Which, in and of itself, is a history of histories - Moralıoğlu's office is peppered with random 1930s portraits (the ones his husband, the architect Philip Joseph, won't let him keep in their Bloomsbury home) and old, time-warped issues of Vogue, as well as overflows of books on everything from Merce Cunningham to Alfred Hitchcock.