Over the past 25 years, the ways we talk about, or think about, the restaurant industry have changed profoundly. Restaurants are no longer settings, inoffensive backgrounds to important conversations or meetings or dates. They are attractions in their own right. Being "into restaurants" became its own hobby. Devout fans tracked chefs as they jumped from kitchen to kitchen like a basketball nerd following player trades. They clocked which dishes were referential like a book critic plucking allusions out of contemporary novels. Chefs were rock stars.
In the early twentieth century, a community of Italian immigrants started selling fruits, vegetables, and other fare in Portland's Central Eastside, earning it the moniker Produce Row. These Italian American fruit markets and groceries planted the seeds of what would eventually become the city's farm-to-table ethos. Despite the outsize impact of the Italian community on our food scene, however, Portland isn't exactly a Little Italy town, lacking a dense concentration of ristorantes and trattorias.
Portland's rich, varied, and vibrant Mexican food scene deserves more attention than it gets. Quality taquerias and mercados have long simmered guisados and pressed tortillas across the city, but in recent years, the scene has blossomed even more. Quesabirria carts, mariscos pop-ups, and artful tasting menus have landed around town, expanding the range and regional representation in Mexican dining. Yet as the food scene has grown, so has the federal government's aggression toward the people behind it.