Triumph, tragedy and an occultist: life at the dawn of mountaineering
Briefly

Longstaff believed that the most important quality of a mountaineer was knowing when to turn back, at the right moment, even if dreams are within reach.
Light marvels at Longstaff's achievements, recalling how he described the wind rattling icicles on beards, while admiring the vastness of the Western Himalaya.
There’s an element of roulette in mountaineering; even the most experienced climbers often have no idea how altitude affects them individually.
The book chronicles dramatic ascents, evoking the rugged terrain and daunting obstacles faced by climbers in the Himalayas, Alps, and Latin America.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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