The wine selection at most Chinese restaurants is small and pro forma: a preponderance of whites, with an off-dry Riesling here, a sauvignon blanc there, and a saturated red like pinot noir as backup for the heavier beef or pork dishes. But what if a restaurant started out with a deep cellar featuring bottles with more personality and age - a wine list that might do a French restaurant proud - and then threw Chinese food into the mix?
Newcomer to Dimes Square, Tolo is that place. Ron Yan of the nearby wine bar, Parcelle, is the chef who serves a spate of spicy foods with a selection of dazzling pours that makes for an entertaining night indeed.
As befits the new generation of wine bars like Claud with brief menus of ambitious food, there are only 11 starters and five main courses, while offering six wines by the glass ($15 to $25), along with access via a QRL code to the vast wine list at Parcelle.
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