The Charms of Venice in the Winter

"A gloriously clear day cold enough to warrant a coat and gloves yet brilliantly sunny-light shimmering on the water like Christmas baubles and a sky so blue that the tides appeared joyously high. Rainbows entered my suite at the exquisite Venice Venice Hotel; a snowy white heron perched itself on the railing of the balcony, seemingly as enchanted by the activity on the canals as we were; a pianist dressed in a long printed cape that swept the floor played into the night."

"We wanted to do none of the things that tourists do, but we delighted in all the things they delight in: the wonder of the light on the water, the domes and steeples, the birds that fly boldly and swiftly and far too close to the tops of our heads. We shopped local designers and jewelers, and gazed spellbound at the Scuola Grande di San Rocco's grand room, its ceiling, walls, and floor in competition for our attention."

Venice in winter presented brilliantly sunny, cold days with light shimmering on the canals and a blue sky that made the tides feel high. Rainbows entered a suite at the Venice Venice Hotel, a snowy white heron perched on a balcony railing, and a pianist in a long printed cape played into the night. The visit balanced avoiding typical tourist routines with delight in light, domes, birds, local designers, and the Scuola Grande di San Rocco's lavish interiors. Meals on palazzo terraces, meetings with artists preparing for the Biennale, and empty streets created intimate moments. The city felt steeped in living history while moving toward the future, and the departure carried a prayer to move forward with quiet courage and shimmer.

Read at Conde Nast Traveler