"The tables at Gli Uffici, on the medieval ramparts of the Castello district in Sardinia's capital, Cagliari, fill up fast. Lunch is sacrosanct here, with churches, schools, and offices closing in its honor. Locals and visitors come to this beloved restaurant for the sweeping views of the ancient citadel, the port, and the sea, and to feast on the nostalgic favorite porceddu-suckling pig slow-cooked with dandelion and rock salt extracted from Santa Gilla, the lagoon with salt pans that attracts the city's famous pink flamingos."
"Reaching for the red wine, I knock over the table salt, which has my Cagliaritana lunch companion, photographer Francesca Ardau, urging me to "appease the devil-throw a pinch over your left shoulder." It's a superstition, she tells me, dating back to the Roman conquest, when the island was exploited for its mineral wealth and salt was considered too precious to spill."
Ancient relics and layered history define Cagliari, where medieval ramparts in the Castello district overlook the port and sea. Culinary life centers on traditional dishes such as porceddu, slow-cooked with dandelion and rock salt harvested from the Santa Gilla lagoon, which also attracts pink flamingos. Local superstitions about spilled salt trace back to the Roman-era value of salt. Daily life preserves siesta and communal lunch rituals, reinforced by a go-slow ethos and Cannonau wine. The mountainous landscape supports physical activity, contributing to Sardinia’s Blue Zone status and a culture in which centenarians transmit wisdom to younger generations.
Read at Conde Nast Traveler
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