On a curious early summer weekend, when Glasgow is somehow hotter than Madrid, I find myself waking in a bell tent on Jura's wild northeast, going for a morning dip in mirror-like water among yawning grey seals... I'm on a short version of the Hebridean Sea Safari run by Glenapp Castle... the Jura setup is off-grid safari-style, in an idyllic spot not far from the Barnhill house where George Orwell wrote Nineteen Eight-Four.
Knowledgeable local skipper Sandy Campbell navigates us to picnics on lonely islets, drams at Islay's lovely whitewashed Ardbeg distillery, and a trip to a 6th-century chapel on the haunting island of Eilean Mor MacCormick.
Pods of porpoises frolic, and a playful minke whale shimmers in the afternoon sun. We’re too late for the usual activity of fishing mackerel for our supper, but a three-course dinner with a sublime local rack of lamb is remarkable given that electricity comes from a generator.
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