It's kind of a miracle, isn't it, that the restaurant apocalypse we feared in the early pandemic didn't happen? The place I've actively missed the most this year is Mel the Bakery, where I used to be able to grab loaves of Nora Allen's seedy sourdough before heading home to Bushwick.
The saddest restaurant closure in 2023, for me, is Newyorktitlan. I've eaten there more than any other place on earth. Julio's chilaquiles and huevos benedictos were a constant in my life, but I was even a bigger fan of his off-menu experiments like fried chicken tacos and chilaquiles tortas that substituted a bolillo with a kaiser bun.
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