The lemper ayam, essentially a square of banana-leaf-wrapped sticky rice, is wonderfully aromatic, the result of being steamed and then flash-seared on the grill, which allows the banana leaf to impart its flavor. Compared to the soy-heavy sticky rices that I grew up with (and continue to love), this one feels like pure, simple comfort.
The cake at L'Orange is crunchy on the outside, delicate on the inside, and packed with warm, heady flavors. Both sweet and citrusy, it strikes just the right balance after an indulgent meal.
I had a few favorite dishes at the James Beard Foundation's Taste America Portland event, which all felt like they were a mini snapshot of the restaurants they came from.
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