I caught the overnight Santa Claus Express from Helsinki to Lapland. St. Nick didn't show up, but the $73 train was full of surprises.

I paid $73 for my seat and the one next to me, so I was able to stretch out on the ride.

If I hadn't reserved the seat next to me, I would've been sleeping upright like a sardine with a neighbor.

I learned that many of Helsinki's hotels offer a late-night checkout package for these late-night trains.

I felt pretty smug being horizontal.

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