Trillium, Birmingham B4: There's a general feeling of people gasp! actually enjoying life' restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

"Trillium is a genuine attempt by a Michelin-starred restaurateur to translate some of their best bits into a semi-rowdier yet still upmarket stage. It's been attempted many times by other chefs (see Corenucopia and Bar Valette for details), but, miraculously, Purnell seems to have pulled it off. There's a general feeling of people gasp! actually enjoying life."

"Sommeliers are on hand if you want to geek out over Villa Noria Amfora orange wine by the glass, explaining the grape, the vineyard, the hills the grape grew beside, but those same staff would also not bat an eyelid if you ordered an equally orange Aperol spritz to go with your round of bruschetta topped with seaweed jam and anchovy."

"Trillium, with its open kitchen, busy decor and jolly, prompt, informal service, might not be to everyone's taste, but it is hugely welcoming. Naturally, you can, if you feel like splashing out, add some Sturia oscietra caviar to that spud scallop for an extra 25, but, as with most plates at Trillium and as I quickly find out, that potato is designed to feel luxuriously hedonistic anyway."

Trillium represents a departure from Purnell's previous fine dining establishments, offering an energetic, welcoming environment with loud conversation and roaring music rather than hushed formality. The restaurant features an open kitchen, colorful glass-fronted design, and informal service that maintains upmarket quality while feeling genuinely enjoyable. Dishes like battered potato scallops with soured cream exemplify the philosophy of luxurious hedonism without pretension. The venue successfully balances sophistication with accessibility, offering optional caviar upgrades and wine expertise while equally welcoming casual choices like Aperol spritzes. The sensory experience combines wobbly tables, flaming pans, and creative menu offerings in an atmosphere where people visibly enjoy themselves.

Read at www.theguardian.com