Koba, London W1: I admire their chutzpah' restaurant review
Briefly

Koba, London W1: I admire their chutzpah'  restaurant review
"It was an utter delight, but then, Korean sweet bean paste, which is made with adzuki beans, is so very satisfying: pleasantly claggy, almost nutty, and a little decadent, while at the same time still convincing you that it might count as one of your five a day, were it not stuffed inside a hot fresh doughnut with a whopping great dollop of whipped cream."
"Koba, a Korean restaurant by Linda Lee, has been providing moments of such joy for 20 solid years, not least with its traditional tabletop barbecue hot plates on which guests could grill their own dinner. Or, in many cases, have their dinner grilled for them by a kindly server, because nothing says: Lord God, what time does my shift finish? more than the face of a tired Korean server watching a gang of tipsy non-Koreans trying to work a tabletop hot plate."
"To celebrate reaching 20 years, however, and after an elegant revamp, Lee has now ditched those hotplates altogether. Koba 2.0 has also slung out the black tables, the dangling extraction vents and much of the dark wood, and replaced it with a wabi sabi colour palette that's pale, dreamy and, in places, even twinkly. Insta-friendly': Koba's mul hwei starter features mixed raw fish, prawn, trout's roe and an icy gochujang vinaigrette."
A warm sweet bean paste doughnut served with buckwheat tea created a memorable winter moment, the paste made from adzuki beans described as pleasantly claggy, nutty and slightly decadent. Koba in Fitzrovia is a Korean restaurant run by Linda Lee that operated tabletop barbecue hot plates for two decades, often with servers grilling for guests. After a recent elegant revamp marking 20 years, the restaurant removed the hotplates and replaced much of the dark wood with a pale, wabi-sabi colour palette. The menu includes mul hwei mixed raw fish, deep-fried cuttlefish, jeon shrimp, pancakes and yook hwei raw beef with pear and seaweed.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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