25 for a cookie? What the baffling luxury bakery boom tells us about Britain

"In its place sits Fika, a cafe where a cinnamon bun costs 4.20 and a pistachio croissant will set you back nearly 5. In comparison with other bakeries, however, Fika's pastries are a bargain. At Copains, a Parisian favourite that opened its first UK branch in central London late last year, a large babka (about the same size as a supermarket chocolate twist) will set you back 12.50, while an eclair costs 11.90."

"These desserts have become viral fodder on social media, prompting long queues outside bakeries that have seized the algorithm to show off their mouthwatering goods. These spots are usually in big cities including London, New York and Paris."

"A survey in September found that the number of independent bakeries in the UK had grown by 34% in the past five years, with the Midlands, East Anglia and the north of England growing fastest. Emma Bell, a business professor at the Stockholm School of Economics, says this is a global trend, with high-end bakeries benefiting from a shift away from an era of cheap, ultra-processed food."

Traditional affordable bakeries like Percy Ingle are being replaced by upmarket establishments charging premium prices for pastries. Fika charges £4.20 for cinnamon buns, while luxury bakeries like Copains demand £12.50 for babka and Cedric Grolet charges £25 for cookies. Similar trends appear in New York and Paris. Despite these elevated prices, independent bakeries in the UK grew 34% over five years, with fastest growth in the Midlands, East Anglia, and northern England. This reflects a global shift toward artisanal, craft-focused food businesses as consumers increasingly reject ultra-processed options and willingly pay premium prices for unique, indulgent pastries.

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