The night I was in, just after the start of the new year, there was abalone grilled over binchotan with delicate gamtae seaweed balanced on top, smoky grilled maitake mushrooms with egg dashi sabayon, duck with kabocha squash rice and sea bream with fantastic coal-roasted sweet potatoes. But there was one dish that stood out for its charm, crunch and inventiveness: the 'K.F.C.' or Korean fried hamachi collar.
I've had fried hamachi collar before and liked it - a lot. But Kim's version, taking a cue from Korean fried chicken, coats the collar in a batter that fries up crisp and golden in an even layer but leaves the fish tender and luscious. Ever since I ate it, I've been wanting to go back for more. It's the kind of dish you can imagine becoming a citywide obsession. If Hibi ever opens a food truck, this should be their dish.
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