One of the South's most influential chefs is now in L.A. He's not making the cornbread

"Sean Brock's biggest concern, he said, is that people will want cornbread. One of the most influential Southern chefs in the country recently opened his first restaurant on the West Coast, and it isn't the cuisine that helped make his name in South Carolina, Georgia and Tennessee. might serve cornbread someday - but Brock says he hopes his sprawling new West Hollywood restaurant and hi-fi lounge will lean more experimental. Every city, he says, has a different rhythm. He intends to play to L.A.'s."

"Instead of the cornbread, grits, hoppin' John and other specialties he'd brought to life in kitchens such as Husk, McCrady's and Audrey, Brock's menu is more esoteric, covering profiteroles filled with candy cap mushroom ice cream in a pine-cone chocolate syrup. He's centering California rice in an abalone-and-celtuce stew. Ssam-like pork belly is served with figs, nasturtium and avocado purée."

Appalachia-born Sean Brock, known for iconic Southern cooking, opened Darling in West Hollywood as his first West Coast restaurant. The menu avoids traditional Southern dishes and favors experimental plates such as profiteroles filled with candy cap mushroom ice cream in a pine-cone chocolate syrup, an abalone-and-celtuce stew centering California rice, and ssam-like pork belly with figs, nasturtium and avocado purée. Fermentation plays a prominent role, and a larder contains pickled produce and vinegars. A custom DJ booth spins thousands of vinyl records, some played by Brock. Brock seeks to understand Los Angeles's taste and adapt to the city's rhythm.

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