"This fall, The Times's Food contributor Luke Fortney checked in on three of New York City's biggest restaurant openings, all a few blocks apart in the West Village. This week, I checked in on three of the season's biggest restaurant openings. First up is Wild Cherry, The new restaurant in A24's Cherry Lane Theater. They make some of the best fries on Earth. The frog legs Kyiv are these little stout drumsticks that erupt with herb butter when you bite into them."
"Then I went to Babbo, originally run by Mario Batali, reopened by Stephen Starr. The vibe here is perfect, but it's clear the kitchen was struggling the night we were there. There were some hits and some misses. The pastas weren't really hot. The bread service was forgotten. But the things that worked, worked. And the roughly chopped carne cruda is my ideal version of steak tartare."
Wild Cherry, in A24's Cherry Lane Theater, makes some of the best fries on Earth and serves frog legs Kyiv described as little stout drumsticks that erupt with herb butter when bitten. Babbo, reopened by Stephen Starr after Mario Batali's tenure, presents a perfect vibe but uneven kitchen execution: some hits and misses, lukewarm pastas, forgotten bread service, and a standout roughly chopped carne cruda that approximates an ideal steak tartare. The Eighty Six resembles a modern Charles Prime Rib, is nearly impossible to book, and delivers high-quality dishes including a plump shrimp cocktail, a soft cheesesteak, sliced ribeye cap, and a Panera-like bread bowl overflowing with exceptional creamed corn.
Read at www.nytimes.com
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