This Texas Barbecue Import in Woodlawn Has a Way With Tater Tots

"Portland and Austin have a natural connection. Both obviously compete for the title of weirdest city in the nation (Though let's face it: It's no contest.). Both are also equally compelling food cities with a prolific array of food carts. So perhaps it makes sense that Austin-born barbecue dynasty offshoot Lil' Barbecue would land in Woodlawn. Situated inside Tough Luck Bar, La Barbecue alum and pitmaster Ben Vaughan is bringing his own twist on that foundational barbecue restaurant's Texas-style brisket, ribs, and sides to the Pacific Northwest."

"If you're only interested in a small snack with a drink, consider the tater tots ($8). Unlike a traditional tot (an Oregon invention), Lil' Barbecue's have a super dense mashed potato interior with the springy consistency of tapioca or mochi. They come with ranch dressing for dipping, and diners can add extras like brisket, chili, queso, or pulled pork. If you have to pick sides, make sure one is the macaroni and cheese ($5) - super creamy and a little spicy, with shell pasta."

"Tough Luck Bar has a substantial footprint on Dekum, with a large patio out front. It's a laid-back spot for groups of all sizes, and offers a full bar that opens at 3 p.m. on weekdays, making it a gathering place for neighborhood residents. Austin's La Barbecue has a popular (but infrequent) burger special that's now always available at Lil' Barbecue - a boon for Portland cheeseburger lovers."

Lil' Barbecue is an Austin-born offshoot located in Woodlawn inside Tough Luck Bar, led by La Barbecue alum and pitmaster Ben Vaughan. The menu focuses on Texas-style brisket, ribs, and sides, anchored by the Holy Matrimony ($75), a large shared platter with all sides, pickles, Texas toast, and samples of every meat. Tater tots ($8) feature a dense mashed-potato interior with a springy, tapioca-like texture and optional add-ons like brisket, chili, queso, or pulled pork. The macaroni and cheese ($5) is creamy and slightly spicy with shell pasta. Tough Luck Bar offers a large patio and a full bar that opens at 3 p.m. on weekdays.

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