"If you're interested in sending your friends' and family's eyes rolling back into their skulls, I recommend talking about wine. Great stuff, wine, and fascinating to the 2 percent or so of the population who enjoy digging into the minutiae of soil, sun, altitude, and the various vine-positioning systems. Oenophiles (ugh) love to trot out Thomas Jefferson's old chestnut that wine is "bottled poetry." I couldn't agree more. How many people do you know lining up to go hear poetry?"
"That wine is a wonderful and time-honored complement to a meal is a well-established trope. It is also a boon to restaurateurs. Wine, at least until our current tariff mania, is a high-margin product, and restaurant markups by the bottle are often in the 300 percent range. As wine has gotten trendy over the last few years, especially in its low-intervention, biodynamic iterations, wine bars have proliferated, often with very good food."
Wine captivates a small percentage of enthusiasts who analyze terroir, climate, altitude, and vine practices. Wine functions as both a culinary complement and a lucrative high-margin item for restaurants, with bottle markups often reaching 300 percent. Recent trends in low-intervention and biodynamic wines have fueled a proliferation of wine bars offering strong food programs. Full-fledged wine restaurants that build menus around deep cellars remain rarer. Chef Jared Stafford-Hill relocated Saint Urban into the former Veritas space, transferring a 4,000-bottle collection and designing monthly tasting menus that prioritize wine by region, aligning service and cuisine with cellar curation.
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