"Ramos, however, is part of a new generation of bakers upping the quality and inventiveness of pan dulce. She might be most famous for her L.A. churro, with the dough piped into the shape of the classic interlocking "L" and "A" seen on so much Dodgers gear around town, especially now with the World Series happening here in Los Angeles."
"Even more remarkable are Ramos' conchas. Some of her conchas have a classic shell-patterned topping, including one flavored with with orange blossom. But I'm drawn to the one she calls the Santa Canela concha, draped with a smooth layer of cinnamon-inflected topping and piped with a filling of burnt chantilly cream, slightly reminiscent of Oaxaca's famed burnt milk ice cream. For me, this concha is a beautiful blend of tradition and pastry chef ingenuity."
Pan dulce in Southern California balances nostalgia and modern innovation as bakers improve quality and flavor. Many panaderías produce soft, commercialized conchas that can taste bland when relying on industrial dough conditioners. A new generation of bakers raises standards with artisanal methods and inventive fillings. Ellen Ramos of Santa Canela makes an L.A. churro shaped like the interlocking L and A, fried to order and notably light and airy. Ramos' conchas vary from classic shell-topped versions to a Santa Canela concha topped with cinnamon and filled with burnt chantilly cream reminiscent of Oaxaca's burnt milk ice cream. Additional notes cover Dodgers-themed food, a Hollywood Distillery in a former mortuary, spiced Day of the Dead hot chocolate, and a Paris ham-and-butter sandwich.
Read at Los Angeles Times
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