"I am not here to critique the essentials of fast food (I love it). If you want someone who will come over like the critic in Ratatouille, you're just going to have to go and rewatch Ratatouille. I am merely here to eat six festive specials, and ask myself: do I feel Christmassy, punk? Impressive' Wagamama chicken cranberry katsu curry. Photograph: Wagamama"
"We all know what a katsu curry looks like, right? A mound of rice; simple, breaded fried chicken sliced along each side; with a sweet thick sauce of miso, soy, ginger, honey and other stuff over the whole lot, to create a plate that is defiantly beige and homogenous, a gauntlet to all norms of food presentation. The sheer audacity of tweaking that for Christmas effect, plus the simplicity of the fix exactly the same curry, with cranberries were both impressive."
Most major fast-food outlets launched festive specials without an established definition of what constitutes 'festive' or metrics for Christmassyness. Festive signals include unexpected lurid colours, seasonal shapes, or the addition of quintessential ingredients such as brussels sprouts, while cinnamon is noted as an autumn spice. Evaluation focused on six limited editions, including a Wagamama chicken cranberry katsu curry that keeps the original katsu structure but adds cranberries to impart a subtle Christmas spirit rather than emulate a full holiday dinner. The cranberry addition was polarising for those who dislike cranberries, slightly increased calories and cost, but conveyed seasonal intent effectively.
Read at www.theguardian.com
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