London's Restaurants Are Maxing Out (Literally)

"Blame the natural wine bar boom, the shared-plates takeover, the obsession with "doing a few things well". Lean lists became a sign of confidence. Places scrapped dessert entirely or threw in a single pre-prepared option to keep tables turning. Then came Covid, when shorter menus meant fewer chefs on the rota, tighter controls on waste, more predictable ordering and less risk, all of which helped to keep costs down, which was vital for survival."

"But something's shifting. Just as the city has swerved away from bare-bones interiors and rediscovered its taste for plush fabrics, tablecloths and dramatic rooms, the long me nu is quietly creeping back in. Maximalism is having a moment, and restaurants want you to stay and spend - the diners still going out to these kinds of places are likely a little less price-conscious than those choosing to stay home in the current climate."

Lean menus became fashionable during the natural wine bar and shared-plates trend, with many venues cutting desserts or offering a single pre-prepared option to speed turnover. Covid reinforced shorter menus to reduce staffing, waste and ordering risk and to control costs. A shift toward maximalism is emerging, with plush interiors and longer menus reappearing. Examples include Legado with almost 60 dishes, Tobi Masa offering five pages of Japanese dishes, and ALTA running extensive Northern Spanish plates and an expansive drinks list. Larger dining rooms, varied clientele and a desire to encourage diners to stay and spend drive the trend.

Read at London On The Inside