
"More than anything, I reveled in the rich, famously pungent flavor of durian. Plump, tender durian crepes crammed full of whipped cream that's layered with chunks of the intoxicating fruit. A durian-and-salt-cream milk tea that only got more potent - and more delicious - the longer I drank it. The bánh pía pastries are a legacy of Vietnam's Teochew (aka Chaozhou) people, an ethnic Chinese subgroup that mostly resettled in parts of Southeast Asia. Both sides of Thai's family are Teochew who moved to Sóc Trăng, Vietnam, two generations ago. Thai himself is fluent in Mandarin."
"As for his family's famous bánh pía, Thai sells a few different variations on the treat, including a savory version that has a char siu pork filling with crunchy bits of candied winter melon that act as a wonderful counterpoint. But in his view, a truly traditional bánh pía never omits the durian. Dzui Cake & Tea is open Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 10 a.m.-8:30 p.m., and Friday-Sunday from 10 a.m.-9 p.m. at 2451 Alvin Ave. in San José. The shop is closed on Tuesdays. For Vietnamese people, he says, "When you say, 'I want a pía cake,' it means you love durian. Because that cake has to have durian inside.""
Dzui Cake & Tea in East San José centers its menu on durian-forward desserts, including durian crepes, durian-and-salt-cream milk tea, and family-style bánh pía pastries. The bánh pía reflect a Teochew (Chaozhou) Vietnamese heritage; both sides of the owner's family moved to Sóc Trăng, Vietnam, and the owner remains fluent in Mandarin. Variations include a savory char siu pork version with candied winter melon, while the traditional form always contains durian. The shop operates most days with specific hours and supplies bánh pía for Lunar New Year gift boxes and customer celebrations.
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